Shapes 101: A Comprehensive Overview of Diamond Shapes

The shape of a diamond refers to the outline or silhouette of the stone when viewed from above. It's distinct from the cut, which involves the diamond's facets and proportions. Diamond shapes are categorized into two primary groups: round diamonds and fancy shaped diamonds. Each shape comes with its own set of pros and cons, spanning from its visual appeal and sparkle to its price.

In this post, we'll delve into the differences between some of the most popular shapes.

Round Brilliant

The round brilliant cut is the most iconic and popular diamond shape, featuring a symmetrical circular outline with 58 facets.

PROS: 

  • Brilliance and Sparkle: Maximizes light refraction and reflection, resulting in unparalleled sparkle.
  • Timeless and Classic: Flattering on all hand types and is suitable for most setting styles.
  • Conceals Flaws and Color: Masks flaws and color well allowing for flexibility in color and clarity grading, which can potentially reduce costs. It's not uncommon to consider going as low as J color and SI2 clarity.

CONS: 

  • Cost: Generally more expensive per carat compared to other shapes due to high demand and wastage during cutting. 
  • Size: Round diamonds can sometimes appear smaller than fancy shaped diamonds of the same carat weight due to differences in weight distribution. For example, elongated shapes like marquise or oval can appear larger on the finger.

Cushion Cut

Radiating vintage charm and allure, the cushion cut boasts a square or rectangular shape with rounded corners.

PROS: 

  • Vintage Appeal: Rounded corners and larger facets offer a classic, old-world charm.
  • Brilliance: Lots of sparkle, though slightly less than round cuts.
  • Variety: Available in several variations like cushion modified brilliant, cushion brilliant, and cushion hybrid. Each offering a different facet pattern and sparkle.

CONS: 

  • Size: Classic square cushions are often deeper cut, which can make the diamond appear smaller from the top view when compared to other diamond shapes. However, elongated cushions with a rectangular shape are shallower and face up larger.  
  • Color Visibility: Cushion modified cuts are prone to revealing more color, often requiring an H or higher color grade. For a whiter appearance, consider a cushion brilliant or hybrid that is adept at masking color. 

Oval Cut

Combining the classic appeal of the round brilliant with an elongated silhouette, the oval cut offers a perfect balance of tradition and modernity.

PROS: 

  • Elongating Effect: Makes fingers look longer and slimmer.
  • Brilliance and Sparkle: Similar to the round brilliant offering a high amount of sparkle.
  • Larger Appearance: Looks larger than round diamonds of the same carat weight.

CONS: 

  • Bow-Tie Effect: Often has a visible bow-tie shadow across the center. It is important to view oval diamonds in person or via high quality videos to ensure the bow-tie is minimal and does not detract from the brilliance and beauty of the stone. 
  • Proportion Sensitivity: Requires well-balanced proportions for best appearance. Opt for very good to excellent symmetry and a length to width ratio between 1.35 to 1.50. 
  • Color Visibility: Tend to show color more easily, often requiring an H or higher color grade. 

Emerald Cut

Characterized by its elegant rectangular shape and step-cut faceting that creates a ‘hall of mirrors effect, the emerald cut emphasizes clarity and purity over sparkle.

PROS: 

  • Elegant Look: Rectangular shape with step cut facets offers a sophisticated, elegant appearance with timeless appeal.
  • Larger Appearance: Looks larger than round diamonds of the same carat weight.
  • Cost: Often have a lower price per carat compared to other shapes.

CONS:

  • Less Sparkle: Not as brilliant as other shapes due to its step-cut facets.
  • Inclusions: Large table and facets make inclusions more visible warranting a clarity of VS2 or higher depending on the characteristics of the diamond.

Radiant Cut

Radiant cut diamonds combine the rectangular elegance of emerald cuts with the brilliance of round cuts, offering a unique and versatile option.

PROS: 

  • Brilliance and Sparkle: With 70 facets, this shape creates exceptional brilliance and fire. 
  • Larger Appearance: Long diagonal proportions make radiant diamonds appear large for their carat weight.
  • Concealing Inclusions: The brilliant facet pattern can help hide inclusions. A clarity as low a SI2 can frequently appear free of imperfections to the naked eye.

CONS:

  • Color Visibility: Tend to show color more easily, often requiring an H or higher color grade. 
  • Bow-Tie Effect: Often has a visible bow-tie shadow across the center. It is important to view radiant diamonds in person or via high quality videos to ensure the bow-tie is minimal and does not detract from the brilliance and beauty of the stone. 
  • Proportion Sensitivity: Requires well-balanced proportions for best appearance. Opt for very good to excellent symmetry and a length to width ratio between 1.20 to 1.40 for a balanced rectangular shape. 

Marquise Cut

The marquise cut features a distinctive elongated shape with pointed ends, resembling a boat or an eye. 

PROS: 

  • Larger Appearance: Longer proportions make marquise diamonds appear larger compared to many other shapes of the same carat weight.
  • Distinctive Shape: Less common shape, giving it a unique and elegant appearance that stands out.
  • Elongating Effect: Makes fingers look longer and slimmer.

CONS:

  • Bow-Tie Effect: Often has a visible bow-tie shadow across the center. It is important to view marquise diamonds in person or via high quality videos to ensure the bow-tie is minimal and does not detract from the brilliance and beauty of the stone.
  • Color Visibility: Tend to show color more easily, often requiring an H or higher color grade. 
  • Proportion Sensitivity: Requires well-balanced proportions for best appearance. Opt for very good to excellent symmetry and a length to width ratio between 1.70 to 2.10 for a balanced shape. 

Pear Shape

The pear shape features a rounded end tapering to a point at the opposite end creating an elegant teardrop shape. 

PROS: 

  • Larger Appearance: Longer proportions make pear diamonds appear large compared to its carat weight.
  • Elongating Effect: Makes fingers look longer and slimmer.
  • Distinctive Shape: Unique and sophisticated, offering a distinctive alternative to more common diamond shapes.
  • Cost: Often have a lower price per carat compared to other shapes.

CONS:

  • Bow-Tie Effect: Often has a visible bow-tie shadow across the center. It is important to view pear diamonds in person or via high quality videos to ensure the bow-tie is minimal and does not detract from the brilliance and beauty of the stone.
  • Color Visibility: Tend to show color more easily, often requiring an H or higher color grade.
  • Proportion Sensitivity: Requires well-balanced proportions for best appearance. Opt for very good to excellent symmetry and a length to width ratio between 1.50 to 1.70 for a balanced shape. 

Asscher Cut

The Asscher cut, similar to the emerald cut, features mesmerizing step-cut facets arranged within a timeless square shape with cut corners, capturing the glamour of the Art Deco era.

PROS: 

  • Vintage Appeal: timeless, vintage appeal reminiscent of the Art Deco era, offering a sophisticated and classic look.
  • Unique Sparkle: step cut facets create a "hall-of-mirrors" effect with flashes of white light that add depth and character, providing a unique type of sparkle.
  • Cost: Often have a lower price per carat compared to other shapes.

CONS:

  • Less Sparkle: Not as brilliant as other shapes due to its step-cut facets.
  • Inclusions: Large table and facets make inclusions more visible warranting a clarity of VS2 or higher depending on the characteristics of the diamond.
  • Size: Compared to round diamonds and elongated fancy shapes, asscher cuts may appear slightly smaller.

Princess Cut

With its clean lines and contemporary appeal, the princess cut combines the brilliance of a round diamond with a modern square silhouette.

PROS: 

  • Brilliance and Sparkle: Exceptional brilliance and fire, second only to round brilliant cuts.
  • Cost: Often have a lower price per carat compared to other shapes.
  • Modern Appeal: Sharp, square shape offers a clean, contemporary look.

CONS:

  • Vulnerable Points: Pointed corners are prone to chipping and require protective settings.
  • Size: Compared to round diamonds and elongated fancy shapes, princess cuts may appear slightly smaller.
  • Proportion Sensitivity: Requires well-balanced proportions for best appearance. Opt for very good to excellent symmetry and 1:1 length to width ratio.

 

Choosing the right diamond shape ultimately comes down to personal preferences, style, and budget considerations. Take your time to explore different options, try on various shapes, and consider how each shape aligns with your unique preferences and lifestyle. The Jewelry For Lovers team is here to help and can provide you with personalized guidance. Contact us to schedule a free consultation with one of our expert gemologists. 

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